Madeira Consorcio – 9.5.2026
We visited the coffee roastery in Monte, close to the cable car station. ODD Coffee owner and manager Gonçalo Gouveia gave us a live demonstration of how he roasts coffee for his cafés and for several coffee shops in Funchal that buy speciality coffee from him.
Gonçalo immersed himself in the craft, taking courses before purchasing his first roasting machine, on which he learned through experience. Later, he invested in a more advanced machine that cools the coffee in a separate chamber after roasting — one of many factors that affects the final result.
Coffee beans come from many countries around the world. Gonçalo mainly buys Arabica beans from Kenya and Ethiopia, both known for their rich soil and high altitudes, sourcing them via Germany to simplify the import process. He is not particularly fond of coffee from Vietnam or Brazil, and he does not create blends.
Roasting coffee is a highly demanding process. “Speciality coffee” bears little resemblance to the inexpensive “bica” coffee available for less than €1 in supermarkets. To qualify as speciality coffee, the beans must achieve at least 85 points out of 100 across a range of quality criteria.
The beans are either “natural” — more sensitive to heat and better suited to espresso-style coffee — or “washed”, which contain less sugar and more acidity, making them ideal for filter coffee. Depending on the amount of sun exposure and natural sugar content, the beans must be roasted differently to achieve the best flavour.
Beans vary in density and humidity. During roasting, they lose moisture and around 13% of their weight. Gonçalo roasts up to 12kg of beans in a single batch which, after pre-heating the machine, takes around half an hour. The roaster is gas-fired and housed in a separate building with appropriate safety measures in place.
Surprisingly, the roasting machine is not especially loud — more like a washing machine. After several minutes, popping sounds can be heard as the beans, changing from green to brown, begin to crack open. Air intake, flame intensity, and the speed of the rotating chamber all play important roles in the process.
After roasting, the coffee must rest for several days. It then has an optimal consumption window of around 28–30 days, although it can still be enjoyed for up to three months.
ODD Coffee sells its coffee in Monte in 250g bags.
Madeira’s climate is becoming warmer and more humid, making coffee cultivation increasingly viable on the island. The regional government has recognised this potential and is encouraging farmers to grow coffee. Gonçalo is currently developing a project in Arco de São Jorge, on Madeira’s north coast, where conditions are particularly favourable for coffee cultivation. Farmers need to provide at least 3kg of green beans for a roasting run to be possible.
Gonçalo goes through around a tonne of coffee each month for his cafés and clients, including Greenhouse, Patio, Arbor opposite Santa Catarina Park, Three House Hotel in Oudinot, and others.
The company also grinds cocoa in a separate machine to create a rich chocolate drink — apparently well suited to the demanding Dutch palate — and produces its own ice cream, all of which can be sampled in Monte.
Gonçalo also shared the story behind the name “BICA”, explaining that it is said to stand for “Beba Isto Com Açúcar” — “Drink this with sugar.”
Ursula Hahn / Sam Gannon
info at madeira-weekly.com
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