Madeira Island is neither too big nor too small. For its size, it boasts some impressive museums—some without equal in the world (such as the Sugar Museum), others strikingly modern (like the MUDAS Museum, perched atop the cliffs of Calheta), and many more worth discovering.
Last year, the Cultural and Investigative Centre in Funchal (https://cultura.funchal.pt/ccif/) joined their ranks, housed in a building that once served as the city slaughterhouse. Regrettably, this government-managed museum receives little publicity, despite having an excellent curatorial team that brings in outstanding exhibitions.
At present, the Centro Cultural hosts a delightful photographic exhibition, “Olhares Comuns” —roughly translated as “Everyday Perspectives”—by Carlos Pereira. The artist knows his city well: he has wandered through hidden alleys and around beautiful corners, capturing simple yet evocative views—a wall and a window, a staircase and a balcony above. Residents can even make a game of it, trying to recognise all the locations.
Upstairs, the team has organised an exhibition of works by Salvador Dalí. We expected to find the famous melting clocks and similar motifs, but instead discovered a long series of engravings—spindly, dramatic, and imaginative. In these prints, Dalí explores Miguel de Cervantes’ Don Quixote. One or two pieces might look lovely on my wall; others feel too sombre, depicting distraught warriors or damsels in distress.
On the opposite wall, we encountered unsettling figures—half human, half animal—less to our taste, inspired by Pantagruel by François Rabelais. Yet, once again, the artistry is majestic. You cannot leave without feeling moved, unsettled, and mesmerised.
The Cultural Centre is in Rua do Matadouro nº 4 (near Campo da Barca, behind the fire brigade), closed Sundays and Mondays, free admission.
Ursula Hahn
info at madeira-weekly.com
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